We begin our river journey in Yingkiong, a remote town high in the Eastern Himalayas. After a thorough safety session, we set off through deep river canyons encountering big volume class IV rapids, separated by calmer pools. In these stretches we learn about any one of a myriad of topics: the geology of the region, India 's people and customs, its history and mythology.

Curious locals peer down from a bamboo suspension bridge

    Mornings always begin with the echo of a conch, calling us to coffee and a mixture of Assam and Darjeeling teas. At lunch we stop on a sandy beach, for an organic, deli-style meal complete with Indian treats and an informative talk on Indian culture, dance, or music. Evenings find us camped riverside dining on tasty Indian dishes. Accompanying dinner we might enjoy a traditional Thadiya dance, a fire-spinning performance, a tabla-sitar recital, witness an Aarti ceremony, listen to tales from the Ramayana, or just get to know each other!

Side effects of spinning fire include a burning sensation in your pants

    During the days, we hike to scenic overlooks and waterfalls, float under swaying bamboo bridges hanging high above, visit templetowns such as Ponging Yingkiong, and arrive at confluences with other rivers, such as theYamne and the Yamgo. On the upper Brahmaputra, we experience the might of the Siang, the waters of which are said to make the drinker as powerful as a horse. We culminate with a morning drift to Pasighat. After a week of life on the river, we find ourselves again interacting with locals, describing our travels and experiences.

One day you'll remember the sound of waves splashing here